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The yearning for Dzükou Valley was sown into my soul on reading an article about it for the first time in 2015; Arunabh and I had just concluded our backpacking trip to Meghalaya. Opportunities did present themselves twice in 2017, but I had to leave for Puducherry to pursue my Master’s Degree, and that’s exactly where the story of the four adventurous souls began.
Tagore Hostel, Pondicherry University, is where Joseph, Abhijeet, and I met. The first thing we discussed was adventure, travel, and mountains; a trek together was imminent. As my days in Puducherry were coming to an end, my soul was craving for a trek—to be somewhere away from the busy streets and amidst the birds, hills, and streams. The trek to Dzükou Valley bestows on you that experience.
Welcoming Joseph and Navajith with the taste of aloo pitika (Assamese term for mashed potato) to Guwahati on 11th June and ending the 4-year wait, the story of the four of us— hailing from Assam, Kerala, and Uttar Pradesh— in the pursuit of visiting Dzükou Valley, thus began.
Foggy Kohima
The next day we travelled to Kohima. With the National Highway 29 (connecting Assam-Dimapur-Kohima-Manipur) under construction, the dusty road, the heat, and our daredevil driver, it was one heck of a bumpy journey. The rain that showered halfway to Kohima, the clouds and hills alongside the road merging into one, the sunset and the fog welcoming us in Kohima are moments I’ll cherish. Starting the day with sweat and heat and ending the day with foggy, cold, drizzling Kohima evening was refreshing.
Unlike other hill stations, Kohima town closes by 6 in the evening. Reaching around 7:30 pm, our search for a place to stay began immediately. The weather comforted our minds. As luck favoured, we found a signboard that read “Backpackers.” It was the Central Guest House beside the Nagaland State Transport bus stand. Decorated with beautiful photos reflecting the rich culture of Nagaland and a balcony with a beautiful view of the city, this hotel was worth it. Staying in a dormitory for the first time was exciting. The map of Nagaland on the entrance of the dorm helped me reminisce about Mount Saramati, the route we took crossing Kohima, Jessame, and Pungro. With the clouds clearing up and the hills shining gloriously against the starry sky, we freshened up and set out for a walk. Strolling through the lanes, gazing at the beauty of the twinkling hills, and then striking up a conversation with a lady street vendor while eating steamed Momo was satisfying.
The Jakhama heights
To learn, to embrace, and to fill in the soul with everything the hike and the valley offer in its purest form was the motive. We avoided watching videos on Dzükou Valley on the internet. Uncertain and un-planned as we were, the day began in trying to figure out how to reach Dzükou Valley from Kohima. What we did know was that the valley is accessible through two hiking trails - Jakhama and Viswema. I could sense the thrill in each of us as we loaded our rucksacks on our backs at the Central Guest House, Kohima. The footbridge, painted like a colourful musical keyboard in the centre of the town, made me recall about my first visit to Kohima in 2016 (Mt. Saramati Expedition), but the colour had faded. The taxi drivers waiting nearby, however, presented us with something that hadn't faded- high taxi fare. A healthy breakfast was due, and we kept marching ahead. Enquiring the locals, we boarded a local bus to B.O.C., the place from where sumos ply to Jakhama and further. The meal at Happy Food restaurant was delicious—the best a foodie could get at a reasonable rate. After half an hour of riding on the Sumo Sawari, we reached Jakhama.
Blessed by nature, Jakhama is surrounded by towering hills, beautiful terrace fields, streams, and the Dzükou River that runs between Jakhama and Viswema Villages. The appealing landscapes implied what Dükou had in store for us. The driver insisted on the Viswema route but the Jakhama Heights attracted us more.
By the river stream and with the view of the peak of the highest hill covered with clouds, we marched into the wilderness—my mind imagining the scenic view of the valley. Skeptical of reaching by sundown, we chose to cherish every moment of the hike. Embracing the waterfall, the river, and the U-shaped Jakhama Valley, we rested. With the sight of the Jakhama Heights engulfed with clouds we soon kicked off. That energetic talk with the two guides descending the Jakhama hill motivated us. Moving ahead, the cultivation of cabbages and makeshift camps at that height did surprise us. Drinking the fresh cold stream water rejuvenated us. Crossing the stream is where the tropical evergreen forest actually starts.
An entire hill and the four of us tuning into its sereneness, the ascent continued. As we gained altitude, the intervals we took rest increased. It was the motivation of Abhijeet, Joseph, and Navjith that kept me moving. Weighing less would have helped me climb faster was the excuse my mind fabricated as I struggled onwards. It is the determined mind that helps climb peaks and not excuses. Dry dates, biscuits, and the fresh stream water that we collected mid-way were our sources of energy. Every time we halted, the beautiful trees, the sound of the stream, and the birds soothed our minds. We would lie over the boulders and sing, cherishing the fact of being amidst the serenity of the forest.
Nagaland has more than 500 bird species, some endangered like the Tragopan Blythe pheasants (also the state bird). I bet a few among them did sing for us. The steep trail demanded more vigour and perseverance. As Joseph waited for me uphill, he would tell me about the beauty of the trees, how the shape resembled a dragon ready to soar into the sky. As Abhijeet, Navajith, and Joseph reached the top, their joyous cheer echoed throughout the valley. With Abhijeet’s motivation, I reached the top to witness the majestic sunset. The hills turned darker against the reddish skies ready to slumber for the night. A hike that started around 12:30 pm took more than 5 hours to reach the top.
Dzükou Valley it is! I cheered, as we descended the hill entering the valley. Jakhama welcomed and bade us with a drizzle. The only light of the camping site shining at the distant hill gave us hope. We reached the camp at 6:30 pm. Pitching our tents, we freshened up and had the most delicious dinner ever. Perhaps the tiredness and the hunger were another reason why we loved it more. My aching body tended to sleep but Abhijeet insisted we rather enjoy the evening under the stars. Dancing around the fire, listening to music under the clear sky with stars, and the moon lightening up the majestic hills, our quest for a paradise called Dzükou Valley was finally fulfilled.
FURTHER READ: The cosmic tales of 'Dzukou Valley' (Part II)
Suggested read:
Rediscovering myself in Nagaland
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