When strolling through the streets of Gangtok in late autumn, one will suddenly start noticing a green overgrowth everywhere: on trees, on fences, climbing over roofs, garden terraces, overhead wires, and no one seems to be complaining. I too was overwhelmed by the presence of this green climber and was intrigued by why it was never weeded; instead, I saw people welcoming its sight. Soon I discovered Sikkim’s love affair with the Chayote squash or iskush as the fruit is lovingly referred to in Nepali. 

The plant is an evergreen creeper that has a growth spurt during the rains, flowers by early autumn, and continues bearing fruit till about late winter. The fruit is consumed as a vegetable and belongs to the gourd family, but what sets it apart is the presence of a single, large, flat seed at its center. Its appearance is best described to be like an oddly shaped pear. Iskush comes in a variety of sizes (from ones as small as a lemon to ones as large as an eggplant), colors (from pale white to lime green to dark bottle green, in varying shades), and outer skin (smooth, rugged, or prickly). The outer skin is thin and usually peeled off to reveal the crunchy white flesh inside. Not just the fruit but people are equally fond of its tender shoots/ leaves called iskush munta and its starchy root called iskush ko jara. The matured, almost sprouting seed is also the most relished part of the fruit, with a wonderful nutty flavour. I have seen siblings fight it out for the seed (iskush ko gudi) in the curry pot.

Iskush growing over a roof

Though originally from Latin America, the Chayote squash, mirliton squash, or chocho is an intrinsic part of the cuisine in Sikkim, Nepal, parts of West Bengal (Darjeeling, Kalimpong, and Kurseong), and Bhutan. Eaten boiled, stir-fried, or cooked with meat in a lip-smacking curry, the vegetable is very versatile and is a flavour vessel. In some places, they are also thinly sliced and sun-dried to preserve it for spring-summer months when the vegetable is not available.

White iskush

The vegetable is a storehouse of vitamins like folate, choline, and Vitamin C; minerals such as magnesium and zinc; and is a dieter’s delight being rich in fibre and very low in calories (25 calories only per cup). No wonder it contributes richly to the healthy diet of the local people and is one of the reasons it became such an important vegetable here. During its season, a single plant can bear upto 70-75 fruits and can feed an entire family for a season. No wonder it is hard to find a house in Sikkim without the ubiquitous iskush growing in its backyard. 

Have you eaten this vegetable yet? Do try it on your next visit and let others know about your experience with it.