Close to Gangtok is the village of Pabyuk, settled atop a ridge across the Rohro Chu in the Naitam - Khedi ridge. The village is settled around the monastery that was founded by Lama Ralchhen Kalzang Chophel in the year 1875. The religious name of this monastery is “Tashi Choling Gompa” and follows the Nyingmapa sect of Vajrayana Buddhism. According to a legend, the Lama came to this spot from Enchey Monastery to meditate and subsequently built a small mud hermitage. The present stone & wood structure was built at the same site as the mud hermitage. The structure has a unique design with inter-locking of wooden beams without using nails to hold them. During the earthquake of 2011, the building was extensively damaged, and a new concrete building was built adjacent to the wooden structure. The murals in the new building were painted by Laripas from Nepal with some religious text and idols shifted from the old monastery. The strategic location of the gompa also made it a lookout point for the Palace located at Gangtok in the past as it had a full view of the Rongni Chu Valley. The gompa presently has 35 monks and 30 novice monks with the annual chaam dance held occasionally in the month of December. This place got its name from a Lepcha word for a variety of bamboo, which was found growing in the area.

Old and new Tashi Choling Gompa

The monastery holds some interesting artifacts such as a bell trance of the gompa. It is said to have been brought from Tibet in the olden days by a trader who wanted to sell it to the gompa for five rupees. As the lamas could not afford it, they requested for a lower price to which the trader refused. On his way back with the bell, the trader realized that as he moved away from the gompa the bell started getting heavier until it became so heavy that he could not carry it any further. This led to the trader realizing that the bell was actually meant for the gompa and decided to donate it to the gompa. With this realization, the bell became light again. He brought the bell back and hung it at the main entrance, apologized to the lamas, and departed.

The gifted bell

Another interesting story revolves around the Statue of Buddha at the main altar, which once displayed its miraculous power. One morning, while opening the main prayer hall, a monk saw the statue sweating profusely. Alarmed by this sight, he consulted the High Lamas, who were amazed to notice that a small pox epidemic that was raging in the surrounding areas stopped spreading from this gompa upwards. Incredibly no one from this gompa and areas above the gompa were inflicted with the disease. The statue is said to have absorbed the disease, thus safeguarding the people of the surrounding areas from the disease.

Statue of Buddha at the main altar

The monastery complex has a small hall and a gallery building, and across the courtyard there is a separate building for nuns called the Ani Lkhang. The entire complex is surrounded by a number of hermitages along with a stone wall on the upper side. The monastery faces the Rongni Chu Valley and offers beautiful views of Gangtok town. A trail leads to the village of Gentok (Rai Gaon) above the monastery, which makes for a gentle forested walk.

Ani Lkhang

There are homestays with basic amenities situated in the village if one intends to stay overnight. The village also makes for a wonderful day excursion from Gangtok; the distance from Gangtok town is approx 23 km or 1.5 hours drive one way with a couple of stops in between. As for food, there is a small cafeteria that serves local food, momos, and noodles with tea.